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Installing a tub isn't specifically rocket science, however it does call for solid plumbing, carpentry, as well as occasionally, tiling skills. Changing an old bath tub with a new one is also a moderately challenging job. If the old bathtub is readily available, the job can relocate speedily; if you have to open up a wall surface to get rid of the old tub as well as place the brand-new bath tub, the task is much harder. In either situation, the job is within a residence handyman's skills, although you will need a helper to leave the old bathtub and also set in the brand-new one. See to it you have qualified yourself for the task as well as fit trying it. As opposed to hiring a contractor to take over a halfway-completed job, it is much better to think about utilizing one prior to you start. Opportunities are you might require a professional plumber to make tube connections.
This article will help you install a new bathtub in your restroom if you have currently bought a brand-new bathtub and also do not require to transform the setup of your previous water pipelines.
Your devices and also product list need to consist of the following:

• New Bath tub


• Hammer


• Pipeline Wrenches


• Prybar


• Shatterproof glass


• Degree


• Pliers


• Flexible Wrench


• Putty Blade


• Screwdriver


• Cold Blade


• Tape Measure


• Pipe Caps


 

Removing Old Taps

If you need to change old faucets with brand-new ones as a part of your installation, then the first thing you should do is disconnect the water supply. After doing so, activate the faucets to drain pipes any type of water staying in the system. The process of removing the existing faucets can be fairly bothersome because of the restricted access that is often the case.
Make use of a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a faucet tool to undo the nut that attaches the supply pipelines to the taps. Have a cloth ready for the continuing to be water that will originate from the pipelines. When the supply pipes have been gotten rid of, utilize the exact same tool to loosen up the nut that holds the faucets onto the bath/basin. You will require to quit the single taps from transforming during this procedure. When the taps have actually been eliminated, the holes in the bath/basin will need to be cleaned up of any old securing substance.
Before moving on to fit the new faucets, contrast the pipe links on the old faucets to the new faucets. If the old taps are longer than the new faucets, then a shank adapter is needed for the new faucets to fit.

Fitting New Touches

If the tails of the new taps are plastic, after that you will require a plastic port to prevent damages to the thread. One end of the connector fits on the plastic tail of the faucet and the various other end provides a link to the current supply pipelines.
If you need to fit a monobloc, after that you will call for decreasing couplers, which attaches the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to the standard 15mm supply pipeline.
Next, place the tap in the installing opening in the bath/basin guaranteeing that the washers remain in place in between the faucet as well as the sink. Safeguard the tap in position with the producer given backnut. Once the tap is firmly in place, the supply pipelines can be connected to the tails of the faucets. The taps can either be linked by using corrugated copper piping or with typical faucet connectors. The previous type must be connected to the tap finishes initially, tightening just by hand. The supply pipes can later on be attached to the other end. Tighten up both ends with a spanner after both ends have been linked.

Mounting the Bathtub

Making use of both wood boards under its feet, place the tub in the required setting. The wood boards are helpful in uniformly spreading out the weight of the bathtub over the area of the boards as opposed to focusing all the weight onto four tiny points.
The next objective is to make sure that the bath tub is leveled all round. This can be achieved by inspecting the level and adjusting the feet on the tub up until the level reads level.
To set up faucets, fit the bottom of the furthest adaptable faucet connector to the suitable supply pipeline by making a compression sign up with; then do the same for the other faucet.
Activate the water supply and also check all joints and new pipework for leakages and also tighten them if essential. Fill the bathtub and likewise examine the overflow electrical outlet and the normal outlet for leaks.
Lastly, repair the bath paneling as explained in the maker's user's manual. Tiling and also securing around the bathtub should wait until the tub has been utilized a minimum of when as this will settle it into its final setting.

Getting ready for the Setup

To start with, the sustaining structure provided with the bathroom should be fitted (if needed) according to the producer's directions. Next, fit the taps or mixer to the bath tub. When suitable the faucet block, it is necessary to see to it that if the faucet features a plastic washing machine, it is fitted in between the bathroom as well as the faucets. On a plastic bath, it is likewise sensible to fit a sustaining plate under the faucets system to avoid stress on the tub.
Fit the flexible tap connectors to the bottom of both faucets making use of 2 nuts and also olives (often supplied with the tub). Fit the plug-hole outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink outlet hole, and then pass the outlet via the hole in the bathroom. Utilize the nut supplied by the producer to fit the plug-hole. Examine the plug-hole electrical outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipeline.
Next off, fit the end of the flexible overflow pipeline to the overflow outlet. After that, screw the pipeline to the overflow face which must be fitted inside the bath. Ensure you use every one of the provided washers.
Connect the catch to the bottom of the waste electrical outlet on the bath tub by winding the string of the waste outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and also screw on the catch to the outlet. Link the bottom of the overflow tube in a similar manner.The bathroom ought to now prepare to be suited its final placement.

Tiling Around the Bathtub

In the location where the bathroom meets the floor tile, it is needed to seal the accompanies a silicone rubber caulking. This is important as the installation can move enough to fracture a stiff seal, causing the water to pass through the wall in between the bathroom and the tiling, bring about problems with dampness and feasible leaks to the ceiling listed below.
You can select from a variety of coloured sealers to blend in your components and installations. They are sold in tubes and also cartridges, and can sealing voids as much as a size of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger void to fill up, you can load it with twists of drenched newspaper or soft rope. Bear in mind to always load the bathtub with water prior to sealing, to permit the movement experienced when the tub remains in use. The sealer can crack relatively early if you do not take into consideration this movement before securing.
Conversely, ceramic coving or quadrant ceramic tiles can be made use of to edge the bathroom or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and cut to dimension, are also conveniently available on the market. It is suggested to fit the tiles making use of water-resistant or water resistant glue and grout.

How to Install or Replace a Bathtub

Find Your Dimensions

The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.

 

After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?

Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly

Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.

 

Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.

 

Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.

Cut Out the Old Tub

After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.

 

Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.

 

Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.

Install the New Tub

Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.

 

Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.

 

Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.

 

When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.

Secure the Tub

After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.

 

Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.

 

Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.

 

Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.

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